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In response to 144882: Tankless WH, posted by Dave P on Monday, 24 May 2021, at 10:05 a.m.
I had a neighbor help me with my Rheem. I can offer a few suggestions.
Ours is Propane but some of the same ideas will pertain to you. I'll mention all I can as others may also benefit.
We are using a small BBQ grill tank (the ones that you swap out at Walmart/Lowes). It took us a bit of trial and error to find the proper regulator to power it. You cannot use common reggulators so beware. I want to have parallel tanks and a switchover. We chose the small tanks as we didn't want to carry large tanks in the truck or have to get deliveries. A quick disconnect (like on a grill) makes changing the tanks easy).
We were building a set of rooms and had access to the walls, etc. In hind sight, we should have been a bit more careful how we did the runs. In this house it would have been better to eliminate long runs and pipe more like a starfish, branching out in all directions. You may not have that luxury. This keeps the runs short and hot water arrives quicker at each location.
My tank is appropriate for outside so we didn't have to vent it.
We used 1/2 inch PEX and may have been able to go larger for some of the run. A plumber can tell you what is best, but I did notice a drop in pressure as the unit seems to slow down the water to heat the water.
My unit has an adjustable digital thermostat so that if I wanted, I could press a button to get hotter water for the dishwasher and then lower it again for the shower. The thermostat for my place is outside but could be in the upstairs hall if I wanted.
A tankless can save a lot of money but there is a drawback. With a regular water heater the water is heated and sits there awaiting your command. If the electricity goes out, you still have hot water. Here in South Kona the power could go out at any time, even while you are showering or filling the tub. With an electric on-demand you will be out of luck during a power outage. However I can still have hot water. The heater still needs electric to power the valves and circuitry and normally I too would be out of luck in an outage except I thought ahead. The minimal power needed for circuitry comes from a UPS (available at Costco). This box supplies 120 volt AC power from internal batteries and an inverter. It also powers the TV and a few other things such as emergency lights. Another plus is that it filters the electricity to the heater and can protect the sensitive circuitry. No power surge is going to wipe out my heater and I get hot water during outages.
I believe all of these units (electric, gas and propane) will require some maintenance.
Δ Rheem is GREAT!!
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