Up Close & Geological with Kilauea Volcano!

(An exciting personal account of a geologist couple's lava-viewing experiences in the late 90's - Ed.)

Kilauea continues to perform spectacular fireworks by the sea. Lava venting from the Pu'u O'o crater on the southeastern flank of Kilauea is producing lava that is flowing downslope in shallow underground tubes, ultimately pouring into the sea. The contact of the lavas with the seawater is an explosive combination, keeping the vent open and active along the shore. Cracks in the lava tube spew molten lava that pours into the sea or pools on the surface. The contact of ocean waves with the 2100 F lava causes steam explosions that send molten material hurtling high into the air. Some of this material is building up into a small cinder cone by the shore. Large chunks of red-hot frothy lava are picked up and tumbled in the waves. Even though they are floating in the ocean, the rock is so hot it continues to glow red for several seconds before sinking beneath the waves. The combination of the buildup of the steam explosion ejecting cinders and the pooling of molten lava on the surface is steadily contributing to the buildup of new shoreline faster than the wave action can destroy.

A group of about a dozen geologists happened to show up at this remote site on the evening of July 1st. A geologist from the USGS Hawaii Volcano Observatory set the precedent for a safe viewing distance. Still, the fumes emanating from the underground flows are, at times, overwhelming. The walk out to where the lava is flowing into the sea is more than 3 miles from the end of the Chain of Craters Road in the National Park. The vast majority of the park visitors are not prepared (mentally and physically) to walk across the rough lava flows and to deal with the "VOG" (natural smog generated from the volcano, especially the exposive steam from the lava entering the ocean. Small drops of mist that come in contact with the eye sting because of the naturally high concentration of hydrochloric and sulfuric acids - they also do interesting things to sunglasses and clothes!

The walk in from the Hilo side is even longer, and is an equally difficult hike, especially at night, but at least it is upwind from the eruption site. The route, however, is hazardous for other reasons. First, there is no one "official" stationed at the end of the road, as they are on the Park side. Second, in order to get to the active ocean-entry site the hiker has to cross at least one active flow. During the day, the only way to recognize it is a sudden increase in air temperature, the smell of sulfurous gases, and heat permeating through the soles of one's hiking boots. Although the chances of slipping through the ceiling of a lava tube into a bath of molten rock is slim, the possibility of getting hurt or seriously burned by falling on an active flow is very real. These hikes are done at one's own risk. At night, the molten or near-molten material glows brightly through cracks in the solidified rock on top of the flow.

We were amazed how much the landscape changed over the course of three days. In that time, the low bench where the lava was actively building out into the sea had extended about 100 feet. On the first day (June 30), a spatter cone about 50 feet high was actively building up from steam explosions where the lava was entering the sea. By July 3, this cinder cone was isolated by the constant seaward buildup. While viewing the flows over the course of four hours on July 1st we witnessed several "breakouts" where the pressure buildup within the tube forced fractures to break open, allowing lava to spill seaward in new locations. This kind of activity highlights the hazardous conditions at this site! The NPS has numerous signs telling people to stay back (for good reason!). Many of these signs have been partially buried by recent flows. The sea cliffs are particularly unstable, and are constantly breaking off in large chunks into the churning ocean below. The park rangers have numerous tragic stories to tell of people who either willingly or unknowingly have walked into harm's way. Occasionally, whole sections of the newly formed shoreline cracks off and vanishes into the boiling sea.

On July 3rd around 4:30 pm we heard a sudden roaring noise, and felt a spikey jolt in our feet; a minor earthquake - a common occurrence on an active volcano. The steep cliffs along the Chain of Craters road that extend northwestward along the flank of the volcano are tremendous faults that are quite active. In fact, few faults anywhere else in the rest of the United States display as much recent offset as these do. It is a testament of the active geologic forces involved with the formation of this volcanic island.

From a geologist's perspective, the cycle of formation and destruction of land, and the recycling of earth materials is nowhere more visible than on the flanks of Kilauea. True, there are many active volcanoes in the world, but most are too dangerous for casual observation. The high temperature and low volatile content of Hawaiian lavas makes them more fluid, and less likely to erupt explosively. You can stand fairly safely within a few feet of slowly pooling lava here, but the great heat radiating from the lava forces you to keep your distance.

A trip out to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is a must for visitors and residents of the Big Island. Check with the Park Service before your trip to find out the current activity and hazardous or closed areas. A hike out to an active lava field is an experience that defies description (although we've tried!). However, it should not be attempted without adequate preparation, information and equipment (good boots, lots of water, rain gear, flashlights with extra batteries, walking sticks, etc.). The walk back across the barren lava flows on a moonlit night, with the red glow of active vents on the mountainside, and the fire-lit billowing steam cloud by the sea, is one of our most eerie and beautiful memories. If you're feeling up to it, it is an experience that you will never forget!

- Story and Photos by Phil Stoffer and Paula Messina -