Punalu'u Beach Park

Punalu'u Black Sand Beach is one of the most picturesque beaches we have, with jet black sand and tall, leaning coconut palms. There is a pond with exotic ducks, too, and a natural freshwater wading pool at the far end of the beach that is good for rinsing off after snorkeling with the turtles. The water can be a bit brisk, as this was a popular place for Hawaiians to get fresh water from the many springs that bubble up in the bay. They would swim out with their gourds, slowly turn them upside down over the fresh water to fill them, cover the hole with their finger, and swim back. The word "Punalu'u" actually means "diving spring".

One of the most thrilling sights for residents and visitors alike is spotting the endangered green sea turtle that makes its home here in Hawaii. They are calm, sweet creatures that are unafraid of humans, and who are most happy to keep munching away on the green algae growing on the lava rock around Hawaii's shores while snorkelers or children play around them. The turtles are protected by law, so touching them or harassing them is punishable by stiff fines, but I have been snorkeling at Kahalu'u Beach State Park and seen one head for shore, bumping into the legs of a teenage girl on its way. The girl was completely oblivious to the turtle's passing because she had her head above water while talking to a friend! I have also seen them decide to take a nap in the coral on the bottom of the bay at Place of Refuge and go limp, drifting down like a parachute on landing, their flippers hanging limply at their sides. At Punalu'u they can be seen in great numbers, as it is a favored nesting area. They will be up on the beach basking in the sun, on the rocks with waves splashing over them while eating algae, and popping their heads up for breath in the bay.

There is a plaque on the beach telling of the turtle:
"The mystical turtle, Kauila, makes her home in the Kau District at Punalu'u Bay. According to Hawaiian mythology, Kauila was empowered with the ability to turn herself from a turtle into human form and would play with the children along the shoreline and keep watch over them. The people of Kau loved Kauila as the guardian of their children and also for her spring, that gave them pure drinking water.

The presence of Kauila can still be felt today by the sea turtles that inhabit this special place. The Hawaiian "honu", green sea turtle, can be regularly seen in the bay, feeding on limu growing in the shallows. In addition, the "honu'ea", or hawksbill turtle, sometimes enters the bay at night to crawl ashore and deposit eggs in the black sand. Both species of sea turtles are fully protected under the U.S. Endangered Species Act and wildlife laws of the state of Hawaii."

There is a public restroom here, and showers. Camping is allowed, though it's an open space and can be windy. The bay can be choppy for the same reason, but if you hit a good calm day, what a treat to have big turtles swimming all around you! There is no lifeguard, but the "far" end of the beach and the turtles are watched over by an ever present picnic table of local residents, who sometimes have to remind tourists not to pick up the turtles for video shots! There are signs proclaiming the protected status of the turtles, but alas, the signs are in English only, and the beach does get its fair share of German and Japanese tourists, to name a few, although Punalu'u still retains its "low key" feel.

To get to Punalu'u Beach Park, go south out of Kona on Highway ll. After going through the little town of Na'alehu and travelling for about 20 minutes or so, you will reach a four-way junction with a sign on the right that says "Sea Mountain Resort". Take the right turn, and go past the golf course and rest rooms, driving on the black sand to park by the hut that sells t-shirts. Walk to the end of the beach and take it all in!


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