One Perfect Day In Kona

Get up thanking your lucky stars to be in Hawaii, and take a leisurely drive south out of the Kailua-Kona area on Highway 11. This is a beautiful stretch of the Island, with gorgeous, lush vegetation, coffee plantations, and a real "local" feel. Stop for a cup of pure Kona coffee, a light breakfast or pastries at the Coffee Shack, a very picturesque place on the right side of the highway that you'll reach in about a half an hour. The views of the coastline from their screened-in patio are unmatchable. (In our opinion, the fact that Midnite, the cat, lends her laidback presence to the place is a plus, too!) You can buy chocolate covered Kona coffee beans or a bag of coffee from their orchard at the shop next door.

Head on south to the right turn (past Napoopoo Rd.) that says Puuhonua O Honaunau. This will take you down to the National Historical Park of the same name (also known as Place of Refuge). This is a very interesting and pretty place where holy men (kahunas) would absolve those "kapu" (taboo) breakers lucky enough to make it here. Breaking one of the many kapu the Hawaiians had was always punishable by death, and those in need of absolution had to swim across open ocean to reach this place. The tall, leaning, coconut palms are some of our favorites. Great tidal pools here for exploring, too. Many times you can see green sea turtles feasting close by on the rocks by the beautiful royal boat landing and lots of Moorish Idols and other reef fish. There is a self-guided walking tour of the many historic sites in the park. (Option for experienced snorkellers: The snorkelling down the public drive at the beginning of the Park parking lot is some of the best anywhere. Clear deep blue water, lots of fish and coral shelves. Just go straight across the lava and jump in. Enjoy!)

Time to head back up north to have lunch at the Aloha Theater Cafe', or a quick bite or excellent sweet at the Roadhouse Cafe' in the little town of Kainaliu. Kainaliu has good shopping. There are now quite a few little shops and galleries to entice you. Oshima's dry goods store has some great local "finds" in it. For instance, it is one of the few places left where you can get mens' shirts made in palaka fabric, the plaid in different colors that used to be sold in the plantation stores of Hawaii. Kimura's fabric store is legend, and a piece of local history.

Now that the hottest part of the day is past, treat yourself to a spectacular snorkeling experience at Kahalu'u Beach Park, just north of the Keauhou Beach Hotel on Alii Drive. This is a wonderful place for beginners and expert snorkelers alike, as there are more varieties and numbers of reef fish to be seen in this spot than any other in Hawaii, so our friend Dick the Diver (author of "Let's Go Shore Dive'n' on the Kona Coast") tells us. This is a salt and pepper sand beach, and the water stays shallow for a long way out. Many fish and turtles. There are outdoor showers, a covered area with picnic tables, and rest rooms. There is a lifeguard on duty, but the ancient breakwater, which is said to have been built by "menehune", protects the bay. A good time will be had by all, guaranteed (or "garans", as they say here!) Another option is to take a to-go plate lunch (the site of our Konaweb parties!) to Old Airport State Park for sunset.

Refresh in your room before going to your 6:00 dinner reservation at the Kona Inn, Don the Beachcomber's - or sit with your feet in the sand and have a drink and pupus at Huggo's on the Rocks (some nights there is Hawaiian music with hula there). These restaurants are right on the water on Alii Drive, and you will be there for "chicken skin" time (sunset). Watch for the legendary "green flash" as the sun drops under the horizon. The other diners might break out in spontaneous applause after a spectacular sunset. Enjoy your fresh fish or Hawaiian pupu, and enjoy just being in Kona!


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